My new reel design has a one piece frame, so the foot has to attach in a different way. Previously, the foot had a tooling hole that allowed simple clamping on two special fixtures. Without the tooling hole, clamping is more elaborate. The new design encompasses 6 different reel sizes, and this affects the clamping methods.
My fixture for cutting a radius at both ends was shown on 14 Feb 2012. The part is now held down with a strap, rather than a bolt through.
The joint of the foot to the frame is a curved surface. I had to make a new fixture to cut the arc on the foot.
This fixture is adjustable to cut a range of radii.
The foot is now secured to the frame by four radial screws. I needed a new fixture in order to drill the foot.
The end of the right clamp bar (the one next to the rotary table) is curved to fit the top on the foot. Each different radius requires a new lower bar.
Finally, my old foot fixture (28 May 2011) needed a special clamp to hold the part in place.
I made upper blocks of several different radii .
North Branch Reels 
I’m really thinking that a rotary table and an angle plate need to be one of my next tool purchases. I can see that those two things alone open up a whole new set of possibilities for machining parts. Fascinating…
Keenan,
Unquestionably, the rotary table is the most valuable Sherline accessory when it comes to making reel parts.
When I brought out my first set of reel plans, someone on the Reelsmithing forum asked how the reel might be made using only a lathe. I attempted to answer, but have since realized that the approach was wrong. It would be much easier to make a reel with just a mill, provided that you had the rotary table.
Because the Sherline mill and lathe use the same headstock, it is possible to turn parts on the mill. I have done this when I have made screws with a spherical surface on the head. None of my reel parts require turning between centers, so a tall toolpost and a chuck convert the mill into an adequate lathe.
Dave