My Email for blog communication is now flyreelmaker@yahoo.com
The Wildblue address no longer works.
Address reelwonk@gmail.com no longer works.
Thanks,
Dave
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My Email for blog communication is now flyreelmaker@yahoo.com
The Wildblue address no longer works.
Address reelwonk@gmail.com no longer works.
Thanks,
Dave
North Branch Reels 
Hi Dave,
I am a budding rod-maker and have saved your link b/c of the Sherline work you have done. I just bought a 4400 lathe and have a few simple-type questions mostly about turning a cork grip on my lathe and removing the tail-stock. Looks like I may have made a mistake buying this tool??
I’ll email you.
Thanks. BTW I’m “thegubster” from the bamboo forum.
Jeremy.
Jeremy,
Did you see the post of 3 Sept 2013? A photo there show my outdoor lathe setup for turning the grip profile. I did remove the tailstock, and used the steady rest on the (round fiberglass) rod. I did not want the fiberglass to be skidding around on the 3 steady rest bars, so I made a Delrin collar (fits on the rod) for the bars to ride on. Where the 3 jaw chuck grips the reel seat, there may also be some Delrin, but I do not remember.
Something that I should have done was make a cardboard negative template for the grip profile. It would have helped.
Dave
Thanks Dave. Yep, I did see that pic. and will use the ref. to decide how to go about making up a steady rest to support the rod blank so she doesn’t whip. Thank you very much.
Dave, steve taylor here. I just finished a long investigation on lapping compounds. There are two types, imbedding and non-imbedding. Since then I have stopped using clover brand aluminum or silicon oxide pastes that are imbedding. I have been using a non-imbedding garnet paste that I get from a company in Pittsburg. The imbedding types continue to hone a bit after cleaning. Steve
You wanna be using Timesaver Products, check it out They have lapping compunds for ferrous and non. Its all I use.
Dave, love the reel you built me.
I recently purchased a Young made Shakespeare Worcestershire 2626. The handle is stuck in place. The reel is good otherwise. The handle is bolted in place. How much would it be to replace? Do you do nominal repairs?
Thanks,
Barry
Barry,
I have sent a reply by Email.
I am a machine shop instructor at Lansing Community College and am looking for blue prints for a centerpin reel. Is there any of them on the web?
Jeff,
I am unaware of any centerpin reel drawings available on the web.
Do you have any reel available now?
Anthony,
The reels available now are the three on the “Reels for Sale” page of this blog. I do keep this page up-to-date.
Dave
Can i still order reel # 17 for 400.00 + shipping
Angelo,
Yes, #17 is still available. Cuurent shipping cost for a Medium Flat rate Box is $15.05 .
You can Email me and do Paypal transaction at the address reelwonk@gmail.com .
Dave
Dave, I have a mid 60’s Orvis Battenkill 2 piece rod. Both tips are loose at the ferrule. I assume the female needs to be shrunk. Is this something that you could do and what would you charge?
Alan: Email sent, please check your gmail account.
Great site… I return often to see the old and new.
I am just looking into a lathe myself… and so it begins.
Cheers, Brian
Great work, keep it going. Given me many ideas and great concepts into your work. Thank you for being so public about your plans and works.
Dave:
I would like to replace a composite handle on my small fly reel with wood. Something like rosewood would be nice. Do you make and sell such knobs. Thanks, Tom
Tom,
I do have rosewood and have made wooden knobs. A problem with them is stability; if they get wet they are likely to swell and bind. I have not found a good way to prevent this. Also, how is the central pin attached? If it is riveted, it cannot be removed without destroying it.
Dave