Faceplate for Minilathe

I was working on a new reel design, and realized that several operations would best be done with the parts clamped to a faceplate.
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The problem, however, is that on my Minilathe, the carriage cannot travel far enough left to get the toolpost in position. The travel is OK for a part held in a 3 jaw chuck, but not for a part clamped to a thin faceplate. The large handwheel for carriage travel interferes with the box of variable speed drive electronics.
In this picture, you can see that I long ago added an acrylic plate as a chip shield. It also restricts carriage travel, but is no worse than the handwheel.

The first thing that occurred to me was that the electronics box needed to be relocated. It was really stupid of the designer to put it in this position.
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The rack and the leadscrew are both capable of moving the carriage far enough left to allow faceplate use, it is only the electronics box restricting travel.

But then I saw that it would be much easier to just move the handwheel.
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So I made this extender for the handwheel shaft.
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Here the extender is installed.
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I made a 4 inch diameter faceplate on my mill.
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Here is the faceplate installed and finish turned.
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San Juan River

Was at the San Juan yesterday for the first time, did a float trip from Texas Hole to Crusher Hole. That must be the standard route, as there is even a shuttle service to spot the guides’ vehicles and trailers downstream.
It is a tailwater fishery. Water was clear; I have never seen so many trout. They get fat on the abundant midge life coming out of the bottom draw of the dam.
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It is bobber fishing over tiny nymphs. I had a “San Juan Slam” of rainbow, cutbow, and brown. Many hookups, many brought in, most of nice size. Guide Scott Warren of Durango CO.

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Alaska

My family took an Inner Passage cruise. Son-in-Law and I used the Juneau day to go fishing. I did not research what to do ahead of time, we just signed up with the Cruise Line standard. Bear Creek Outfitters and guide Sam did a fine job: supplied waders and rods, and tied all knots, etc. Also carted the special items needed for Alaska fishing: satellite phone, bear spray, firearm.

We flew out on a Beaver to Slocum inlet and then slogged our way up the creek.
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Sam gave us Clouser Minnows, but of colors that I never saw in Michigan. A “school” of Cutthroats and Dolly Varden readily took these streamers. A little father upstream were Pink Salmon, and they wanted the Clousers also.
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Granddaughter clearly does not believe my lie about a big fish.
Aug2018

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Ball Turning

My “standard” bronze frame reel has two surfaces that are cut to a spherical shape, one is the spool retaining screw head (convex) and the other is the waist on the knob (concave; at least, concave motion of the cutter). When I had a Sherline mill I could use it as a lathe by turning the headstock 90 degrees and mounting the cutter to a rotary table. But now I have the more robust Mini Mill, and axis of the headstock can only be vertical. It is still possible to turn, but it seems quite awkward.

So I sought a way to do the turning on my Mini Lathe. First I bought the standard ball turning tool:
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But it failed on both counts; it was not big enough to make an 0.8 inch convex radius or a 1.8 inch concave radius.

On Pinterest, I have been seeing many home made ball turning tools. So I have made my own, of a generally similar design.
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The cutter is a 3/8 inch round carbide insert.

Cutting a convex surface – screw head.
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Cutting a concave surface – knob.
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Tool Post Grinding

I have been selling “Ferrule Shrinking Tools” again; they are used by bamboo rod makers to reduce the diameter of a female nickel silver ferrule and improve the fit. Since I have pretty well satisfied the total rodmaker demand for this tool, it is hard to justify ordering another large batch of parts from a machine shop. So I decided to make a few myself.
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The main structural parts are two aluminum disks, 2-5/8 diameter and 3/8 inch thick. The slabs are sawn from a 2-5/8 rod and have to be faced off with a lathe.

I did the facing with my Minilathe because the Sherline lathe does not have enough low speed torque, making the operation very tedious. But the faces of the disks were coming out about .004 inch out of parallel. This would be OK for the purpose, but I felt that I should be able to do better.
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It is easy to see why the disks vary in thickness; the height of the three chuck jaws vary by a total of .004 inch.

So the chuck jaws need a little adjustment. But these jaws are hardened and cannot be trimmed with lathe bits that I have. This a a job that calls for a tool post grinder. Not wanting to lay out money for the real thing, I decided to try my Dremel tool.
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Instruction on how to do this are on Varmit Al’s Mini Lathe Page. First step is to square up a Dremel-sized stone. I did this with a diamond point tool.

Here is the grinding setup. The chuck jaws are clamping a scrap disk so that the jaw surfaces that I want to trim are at the right radius. The Dremel tool is held in a bracket that I made a long time ago for use with a Sherline mill. All 3 jaw surfaces have been colored with a Magic Marker. I turned the chuck by hand.
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Since I have removed the compound assembly in order to mount the Dremel tool, I have to advance the stone using the lathe’s rack drive. A dial indicator shows the carriage axial location. A clamp for the carriage is needed, also described by Varmit Al. I had to take very light cuts, about .0003 inch, or the Dremel tool would stall. But the final result was quite satisfactory.

Posted in Abrading | 2 Comments

New Band Saw

This has been my cutoff saw ever since I started metal working. It is just a handheld bandsaw lashed to a homemade plywood frame.
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It has been quite satisfactory on flat bar stock and rod stock less than 1.5 inch diameter.

It fell short, however, when I started making bronze frame reels. The material that I wanted to use (c544) comes only as rod stock, and I needed 3 inch diameter. It was difficult to get a straight cut because the plywood frame was not sufficiently rigid.

When I needed to make a lot of cuts on 2-5/8 inch diameter aluminum rod stock, I decided that it was time to upgrade the saw. This is my new Model 4829 saw from Little Machine Shop.
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It appears that the same saw is offered by Grizzly. Grizzly stocks repair parts but LMS does not. I know, because the first time I changed blades I ruined a rubber tire.
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LMS sells a 10 tooth/inch blade that is much better for large stock than the 14 tooth/inch blade that comes with the saw.
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So what is the deal with the 10 pound weight?
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The saw hinge has a built-in spring that lifts the saw. The extra weight partly overcomes the spring torque and makes cutting easier.

Update 20 July 2018: For dealing with larger diameter round stock, it helps to have a custom vise:
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Posted in Cutting | 3 Comments

Using the Ferrule Shrink Tool

I have started selling the ferrule shrinking tool again. If you are interested, see my blog page:
Ferrule Shrinking
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My experience with the tool is recorded in two blog posts:
Ferrule Shrinking
Ferrule Tool Article

Recently Chris purchased a tool and provided commentary. Following is our Email exchange.

Hi Dave.
Got the tool yesterday. Looks good and operates very smoothly.
Question: being super careful, can one adjust the ferrule ON THE ROD? Thought I would ask before I ruin something.
Cheers,
Chris

Chris,
Yes, use it on the rod.
Good point, I should say this somewhere in my blog articles.
Dave

Dynamite. I have a very specific rod in mind.
Best,
Chris

Hi Dave.
Just finished my first set of ferrules with the tool. It took some work to figure out the best approach and if I did it again, I’d get some scrap ferrules or just tubing to practice on, but I just went for it. Once you go past hand pressure (difficult to keep going by hand on small screw heads) it’s REAL easy to go too far with an Allen key. And, you gotta be real careful of the welt if it is soldered on. Ask me how I know! Anyway, after figuring all that out, I got the hang of it and I got a near perfect fit with one male. And then I realized, “Hey, it’s still too loose on the other one!” Doh! 🙂 I didn’t really think about this from the start. The rod came to me used and the two males had different fits with the female. One is loose enough that it twists during fishing. Like an idiot, I started with the tighter one. Do over. So, first thing I did is get the looser male to as perfectly parallel sided and round as I reasonably could using a mic good for 0.00005″. I chose to fit a male first in case there was a chance of making the female fit non-parallel. Having a really good male to test with would avoid this problem. I don’t have any gauge pins, though I guess I could have turned down some brass stock. Anyway, then I refit the female a second time with your tool. Now from experience: test fit, test fit, test fit. Then the second male. The whole thing is nearly perfect now. Better than the fit I’ve received on some new rods and better than this rod has ever gone together. This happens to be one of those micro ferrules in the Super Z style, ultra short. Not sure if that is easier or harder, but it’s WAY better than it was. So, thank you very much for making this available. I can see it being used many times and I believe it has paid for itself already vs. taking a ferrule off (if you can), replacing with new ferrules or at least males, refitting both cane and metal, re-gluing, re-wrapping and varnishing, let alone shipping to the maker for repair.

In case you are writing instructions in the future, maybe some of this is helpful for someone with zero experience with similar tools?

Thanks again,
Chris
 

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