Tool Post Grinding

I have been selling “Ferrule Shrinking Tools” again; they are used by bamboo rod makers to reduce the diameter of a female nickel silver ferrule and improve the fit. Since I have pretty well satisfied the total rodmaker demand for this tool, it is hard to justify ordering another large batch of parts from a machine shop. So I decided to make a few myself.
IMG_4882
The main structural parts are two aluminum disks, 2-5/8 diameter and 3/8 inch thick. The slabs are sawn from a 2-5/8 rod and have to be faced off with a lathe.

I did the facing with my Minilathe because the Sherline lathe does not have enough low speed torque, making the operation very tedious. But the faces of the disks were coming out about .004 inch out of parallel. This would be OK for the purpose, but I felt that I should be able to do better.
IMG_5455
It is easy to see why the disks vary in thickness; the height of the three chuck jaws vary by a total of .004 inch.

So the chuck jaws need a little adjustment. But these jaws are hardened and cannot be trimmed with lathe bits that I have. This a a job that calls for a tool post grinder. Not wanting to lay out money for the real thing, I decided to try my Dremel tool.
IMG_5454
Instruction on how to do this are on Varmit Al’s Mini Lathe Page. First step is to square up a Dremel-sized stone. I did this with a diamond point tool.

Here is the grinding setup. The chuck jaws are clamping a scrap disk so that the jaw surfaces that I want to trim are at the right radius. The Dremel tool is held in a bracket that I made a long time ago for use with a Sherline mill. All 3 jaw surfaces have been colored with a Magic Marker. I turned the chuck by hand.
IMG_5456
Since I have removed the compound assembly in order to mount the Dremel tool, I have to advance the stone using the lathe’s rack drive. A dial indicator shows the carriage axial location. A clamp for the carriage is needed, also described by Varmit Al. I had to take very light cuts, about .0003 inch, or the Dremel tool would stall. But the final result was quite satisfactory.

Advertisements
Posted in Abrading | 2 Comments

New Band Saw

This has been my cutoff saw ever since I started metal working. It is just a handheld bandsaw lashed to a homemade plywood frame.
IMG_5452
It has been quite satisfactory on flat bar stock and rod stock less than 1.5 inch diameter.

It fell short, however, when I started making bronze frame reels. The material that I wanted to use (c544) comes only as rod stock, and I needed 3 inch diameter. It was difficult to get a straight cut because the plywood frame was not sufficiently rigid.

When I needed to make a lot of cuts on 2-5/8 inch diameter aluminum rod stock, I decided that it was time to upgrade the saw. This is my new Model 4829 saw from Little Machine Shop.
IMG_5448

It appears that the same saw is offered by Grizzly. Grizzly stocks repair parts but LMS does not. I know, because the first time I changed blades I ruined a rubber tire.
IMG_5449

LMS sells a 10 tooth/inch blade that is much better for large stock than the 14 tooth/inch blade that comes with the saw.
IMG_5450

So what is the deal with the 10 pound weight?
IMG_5451
The saw hinge has a built-in spring that lifts the saw. The extra weight partly overcomes the spring torque and makes cutting easier.

Posted in Cutting | 3 Comments

Using the Ferrule Shrink Tool

I have started selling the ferrule shrinking tool again. If you are interested, see my blog page:
Ferrule Shrinking
IMG_5437
My experience with the tool is recorded in two blog posts:
Ferrule Shrinking
Ferrule Tool Article

Recently Chris purchased a tool and provided commentary. Following is our Email exchange.

Hi Dave.
Got the tool yesterday. Looks good and operates very smoothly.
Question: being super careful, can one adjust the ferrule ON THE ROD? Thought I would ask before I ruin something.
Cheers,
Chris

Chris,
Yes, use it on the rod.
Good point, I should say this somewhere in my blog articles.
Dave

Dynamite. I have a very specific rod in mind.
Best,
Chris

Hi Dave.
Just finished my first set of ferrules with the tool. It took some work to figure out the best approach and if I did it again, I’d get some scrap ferrules or just tubing to practice on, but I just went for it. Once you go past hand pressure (difficult to keep going by hand on small screw heads) it’s REAL easy to go too far with an Allen key. And, you gotta be real careful of the welt if it is soldered on. Ask me how I know! Anyway, after figuring all that out, I got the hang of it and I got a near perfect fit with one male. And then I realized, “Hey, it’s still too loose on the other one!” Doh! 🙂 I didn’t really think about this from the start. The rod came to me used and the two males had different fits with the female. One is loose enough that it twists during fishing. Like an idiot, I started with the tighter one. Do over. So, first thing I did is get the looser male to as perfectly parallel sided and round as I reasonably could using a mic good for 0.00005″. I chose to fit a male first in case there was a chance of making the female fit non-parallel. Having a really good male to test with would avoid this problem. I don’t have any gauge pins, though I guess I could have turned down some brass stock. Anyway, then I refit the female a second time with your tool. Now from experience: test fit, test fit, test fit. Then the second male. The whole thing is nearly perfect now. Better than the fit I’ve received on some new rods and better than this rod has ever gone together. This happens to be one of those micro ferrules in the Super Z style, ultra short. Not sure if that is easier or harder, but it’s WAY better than it was. So, thank you very much for making this available. I can see it being used many times and I believe it has paid for itself already vs. taking a ferrule off (if you can), replacing with new ferrules or at least males, refitting both cane and metal, re-gluing, re-wrapping and varnishing, let alone shipping to the maker for repair.

In case you are writing instructions in the future, maybe some of this is helpful for someone with zero experience with similar tools?

Thanks again,
Chris
 

Posted in Ferrules, Forming | Leave a comment

Leo’s Foot Fixtures

Below is some correspondence from Leo. When I have needed to make curved surfaces on reel feet, I have used my mill with either a rotary table fixture or a ball end mill. Leo shows how to do the same tasks with his lathe. The education here is making custom fly cutters.  For milling operations, he has made custom vises to hold the work.

Hi Dave,
I have made a few fixtures to make machining of reel feet a little more convenient. Maybe theses are of interest to you and others who make reels.
The first is a fixture block with a clamping slot on one side. On the bottom of the block is a tenon which fits snugly into a t-nut slot on the milling table, making sure the block is in line/perpendicular with the x and y axis. Two allen bolts clamp the block to the milling table using two t-nuts.
Leo2 step1
The reel foot blank, after being milled to the correct width, gets clamped in the slot to face off the ends.

If I had a matching ball nose end mill, I could now also machine the inside radius to fit the reel seat, but I wasn’t able to find one for a reasonable price.
After that, the blank gets clamped in the other fixture which mounts on the lathe cross slide. There the inside radius gets machined with a long fly cutter, which receives support from the tail stock at the rear end. This way the inside radius can be made using the lathe’s power feed, leaving quite a good surface finish. One can either hold on to some kind of beverage and watch the lathe do the work, or when making several reel feet sand off the machining marks of the previous one, while the next one gets cut. Huge time saver!
Leo2 step2 (2)

Leo2 step2a
The fixture indexes on the cross slide via a tenon on the bottom and bolts to a long t-nut with to threaded holes.

Afterwards, the blank goes back to the slot in the fixture block to drill the mounting holes for bolting it to the reel frame.
Leo2 step3

Now, using one of the holes, the blank gets bolted to an arbour to machine the conical outside radius.
Leo2 step4

After that, the blank gets clamped to the other side of the milling block to use a fly cutter to machine the radius to match the outside of the reel frame.
Leo2 step5
I made these fixtures from scrap aluminium blocks I had laying around. It took me the better part of a saturday to make the fixtures, but now it is quite easy to make reel feet. The pieces get held securely, so no more parts shooting into an earth orbit. Also with the fixtures made from aluminium, the parts don’t get scratched, dented or otherwise damaged.

There are four reel feet blanks in most of the pictures, because I needed one to replace the foot of reel No.3(because the one made for this reel wasn’t to AFFTA specs and that bothered me), two will be fitted with a pointer to serve as alignment guides when glueing reel seats to rod blanks(this idea came from the bamboo book by Garrison and Carmichael), and the fourth reel foot is for a future project. Reel No.3 has received some anodising and coloring in the meantime.
Leo2 result
If you want, you can share this on your blog. Might be time for me to start blogging as well.
Best regards from Germany!
Leo
___________________________________
Leo,
Your use of “fly” cutters for radii is most interesting. Are the cutting edges just a ground scrap of “drill rod” (hard steel small diameter)?
Dave
___________________________________

Hi Dave,
There is a group shot of my fly cutter/boring bar holders. Usually there should be more cutters/boring bars around, but I destroyed one or two and a few others just disappeared and I can´t find them.
Leo3 GOPR1190

The cutter “1” is for surfacing, and I think I made this one some day because I needed to get a specific job done at that day, so the overall appearence of the arbor resembles the urgency of that situation. It just had to work, as it still does, but no time was wasted on good looks or a specific tool angle, just “some” angle so the grub screw holding the insert clears the work.
“2” can either be used as a boring bar in the mill, or when machining reel feet in the lathe, but it can also be held in the boring bar holder “5” for inside threads or similar work.
Leo3 2

Leo3 5_and_2
“3” is the short version of “2”, mostly used in the milling machine when the extra length of “2” isn´t needed. Less length, less chatter.

“4” and “5” are boring bar holders for the lathe. I made them from leftover steel blocks. One holds 6mm cutters made from drill rod, the other holds 10mm cutters or can be combined with “2” or “3”.
Leo3 4

Leo3 4_again
I hope this helps you understand my fly cutter/boring bar tooling.
Leo

Posted in Fixtures, Foot, Turning, Work Holding | Leave a comment

Ratchet Cutting

This blog post records my setup for cutting ratchet teeth. I having been building reels one at a time, so this setup is needed for each reel.
IMG_5419
The bushing/ratchet blank is held on a mandrel in a 4 jaw chuck so it can be precisely centered on the rotary table.

Put the cutter in front of the work piece so that fuzzy burrs are on the ratchet face that can be trimmed.
IMG_5421

To get the cutter at the correct height, use a gage block as a feeler gage between the blank and the cutter. Then lower the cutter by a calculated amount.
My “gage block” is a scrap of aluminum milled to 0.582 inch height.
IMG_5420
For the 23 tooth ratchet (3 weight reel) the blank is 0.694 diameter and the cutter is .121 thick. So lower the cutter by (.694 + .121)/2 + .582 = .989 inch.

For the 36 tooth ratchet (5 weight reel), (1.056 + .145)/2 + .582 = 1.182 inch.

Depth of cut for the 36 DP ratchets is 2.157/36 = 0.060 inch.

After milling, the Delrin ratchet has fuzzy burrs that have to be removed.
IMG_5422

IMG_5423
So make the ratchet blank thicker than required. A facing cut will remove much of the burr, but hand clean-up will still be needed. I use a “de-sprue” nipper from MicroMark for this.

Posted in Milling, Ratchet/Gear | Leave a comment

Compliance Reduction

The problem that I am having with my MiniLathe is that the support of the cutting tool is too compliant. It is really disconcerting when a cut-off blade dives under the workpiece. Chatter is a problem with all types of cutting tools.

I believe that most of the compliance is in the compound slide. I have worked with lapping the dovetail and adjusting the gib, but cannot get satisfactory performance. When I have to part off, I would much rather use my Sherline lathe.
IMG_5414
My solution is to remove the compound whenever possible. Here are two fixtures that allow just that.

The first one carries a 3/8 inch diameter round carbide insert. I designed it especially for finishing the inside surfaces of a reel spool.
IMG_5416
The insert support is 5/16 inch wide so there is clearance on the sides and the front of the insert and I can use it on all interior surfaces.

The other fixture is just a spacer that replaces the compound.
IMG_5418

Having lost the compound leadscrew, I rely on a dial indicator for axial position.
IMG_5417
There is a problem here, of course. I cannot make fine adjustments and close the half nuts to lock the carriage axially. This is OK for some operations but allows carriage creep for others. So I still need to make a positive carriage lock.

Posted in Fixtures, Turning | 1 Comment

Cutting a Steep Taper

I want to make a special brass washer, flat on one side and conical on the other. The stock is 7/16 inch diameter brass, and the cone angle is 60 degrees from parallel to the stock rod axis.
IMG_5407
It is easy to set up the Sherline lathe for the conical cut, just pull the alignment key from the bottom of the headstock and rotate the headstock CCW by 30 degrees. The cut can then be made by advancing the cross slide leadscrew. When tapers are less than 45 degrees, you advance the axial leadscrew.

I have seen headstock rotation only on small lathes like Sherline and Taig. The motor mounts to the headstock and rotates with it. Motors for larger lathes are generally too heavy for this, so tapers are made with a compound slide.

So let us see how hard it is to set up this cut with a compound slide. I bought a Chinese minilathe, and am trying to learn how to use it.
IMG_5413
Just turning the compound 30 degrees CW from axial doesn’t work; advancing the compound would just charge the cutter straight into the material, 90 degrees from the desired travel direction.

So let’s rotate on around to 120 degrees CW from axial.
IMG_5409
Direction is good, but I can’t push the apron assembly far enough toward the headstock to bring the cutter into position.

Instead, trying turning the compound 60 degrees CCW from axial.
IMG_5411
Again, direction is good. But I have to run the compound far back to access the screws that lock angular motion, and then I can’t turn the compound crank because it is up against the chip shield.

Final answer: turn the compound 60 degrees CW from axial, and make the cut on the back edge of the part.
IMG_5412
Of course, the bit has to be turned upside down, and stacked on top of another bit to put the cutting edge at correct height.

A conventional lathe with compound slide doesn’t have to be this clumsy. Some have compound angle locks that are more readily accessible, and few have chip shields that get in the way.

I am impressed with the simplicity and ease of use of Sherline’s configuration, and would like to see it available on a larger lathe. This might be possible if the headstock was a spindle motor with a suitably large spindle.

Posted in Turning | 4 Comments