I have made prototypes of two sizes of my “Fixed Spindle Reel” (see post immediately preceding this one), and am now starting the first reel for a customer. Also, I have committed to deliver a plan set by the end of October. This plan set will include step-by-step instructions for the more complex parts.
The Rear End Plate is the most complex part of the reel. As I am making one this week, I am taking pictures that illustrate the step-by-step instructions.
Many of these steps are repeated for the Front End Ring.
Step 4: Rounding corners on the bar stock. This allows turning on the lathe.
This 4 jaw chuck is a good milling vise, but only if it is restrained from angular motion (see bolt, washer, and brass spacer).
Step 6: Find X and Y positions by reading the engraved scales on the mill, in addition to the handwheels. These scales lack pointers, so my pointer is a brass square pushed against a way cover support. It works on the Y axis also.
Step 9, 10, 11: Turn the part over and re-center. The center hole is the only feature available for alignment. The indicator is running on a brass part that closely fits the hole.
Because the chuck jaw step is higher than the flange thickness of the finished part, I have inserted a .040 thick spacer between the jaws and the part. This spacer is just a round piece of aluminum sheet. Cutting sheet metal is a problem. I cut an oversize circle with a scroll saw, then hold it in a chuck to drill 3 holes, then bolt it to a faceplate to turn the outer diameter.
In re-chucking, you must not only re-center but also get the part down flat on the chuck jaws. Here you see a skin cut at the four corners. I can measure thickness at all corners to see if it is flat (i.e., parallel to the other side).
Step 14: Rounding the corner. Here I have turned outside surfaces to final dimension and am making a round corner. The procedure is to cut some chamfers and then smooth with a file.
On Sherline’s lathe you can cut a taper/chamfer by rotating the headstock.
Step 15: Drill and counterbore the bolt circle. Angular position here is very critical. Remember that the rotary table has backlash, and take it out just as you would for the X and Y axes. The rotary table also has a locking setscrew; I had my table for some time before I found it.
Steps 20, 21: Round the lug corners. Some minor adjustments of radius are needed to make this .175 convex arc meet the .188 concave arcs on a common tangent. I find it easiest to make these adjustments with a 2 flute end mill.