I have machined and sanded all the aluminum parts for 5 reels, but have been putting off the anodize process. It’s boring, 1 hour per part, 7 parts per reel. Today I finally started.
The first part, an S-crank, came out wrong. It was much darker than what I got with the first reel (May 4, 2010 blog entry).
So what went wrong? My acid solution was old, saved from last May. But it was stored in a well sealed polypropylene jar, and I would not expect sulfuric acid to deteriorate. The more likely problem is that the solution was cold; it had been sitting in my garage (~40F). I am pretty sure that this was the cause, since I noted that the anode to cathode voltage drop was unusually high during the process.
So I mixed a new acid-water solution, since I was too impatient to do a series of trials to isolate the cause. This time, with room temperature solution, the voltage drop was normal and the coating was much lighter.
Top: dark part, anodized in old, cold solution
Middle: correct part, new solution at room temperature
Bottom: not yet anodized
The top part has a machining mistake, note the square hole. I will use it as a replacement for the less well shaped crank of my first reel, after I strip the anodize and re-coat.
The properly anodized crank (middle) is less reflective than an uncoated part. If I wanted a bright, shiny reel I would probably have to go to a professional metal finisher.
Update March 18, 2011: When I did my first anodizing (May 4, 2010) it was spring and indoor temperatures were at least 68 deg F. I was running 12 amp/sq ft current, and the acid solution was getting warm. But all anodizing looked OK. I have gone back and read Ron Newman’s instructions again, and can now see that temperature control is important.
A problem with my small anodizing cells is that they have little thermal mass. So I am now putting the cell in a tray of water, and monitoring the water temperature. I add some warmer or colder water when out of range 65 to 70 F. Also, I have cut the anodizing current from 12 to 6 amps/sq ft, so heating is less. Newman says this should produce better color as well.
There are 6 main aluminum parts in my reel: two rings, two spool ends, crank, and foot. But there are also 24 small parts, pillars and screws. These are too small to fiddle with individually, so I made this aluminum bar to hold them while anodizing all together. Of course the bar becomes anodized, and could be an insulator for the next batch. So I strip it with lye between batches.
Hello, I had the same issues as you when I started to anodizing this winter after being being successful last summer, figured that my acid water solution was to cold. A couple of phone calls solved the problem.
Very nice looking reels.
Leroy…………..
Thanks for the report, Leroy. One other thing I noticed was that a dark deposit develops on the cathodes. It wipes off easily if done soon after ending the process. I now clean all cathodes between runs, just to be sure that they continue to conduct, and to remove the dark substance from the tank.
Dave
The colour on the “mistake” is the most appealing to me. In the one photo, it seems to approach bronze.
Swellcat,
My photo does not very well depict the color; I think that the yellow tinge is from light reflected from the wood interior of my house. My color perception is below average, and I don’t always realize when the photos don’t look right. The “mistake” part looked dingy. At some point, I may experiment with dyeing the anodize layer to get a bronze appearance.
Dave