To go with the one piece spool, I have also made a one piece frame. This is a record of the steps.
Face the material on both ends and cut a “grip”, a projection for holding the work in many coming steps.
Groove the finished OD to enhance the milgrain pattern.
(Update 14 Nov 2013: In the above picture, I am making two closely spaced grooves with a sharp tool and will then press the milgrain tool into the narrow land in between. It turns out that the resulting pattern is partially erased when the part is later tumbled in abrasive media. I have found that the milgrain pattern is better preserved if it is made at the bottom of a groove. My milgrain wheel is .048 inch wide, and a groove .052 wide and .010 deep works well.)
Apply the milgrain.
Hollow out the inside with a roughing end mill.
Working in the vertical position causes chips to accumulate. I may try to do this in a horizontal position the next time.
Turn the ID with a boring tool. This tool is too long and skinny to make a good finish.
Turn a finished surface on the bottom. I made a special tool post to get the bit deep enough.
Mill out the “windows”. This creates sharp edges that I do not know to remove, except by tumbling in abrasive media. My skill with a file is not adequate to do the job.
Drill and countersink holes for foot mounting.
Finally the part can be unchucked from the “grip”. Here I have fit it to a grooved tool plate in order to work on the back.
Trimming back with a roughing end mill.
Continuing with a ball end mill. This is followed by turning.
This is the finished part, not yet ported, tumbled, or anodized.
The material weighed 11.7 ounces, and the finshed part is 0.77 ounce. So 93 % of the material was turned into chips