End Rings

To fabricate nickel silver end rings, you have to neatly silver solder the flange to the web, then machine. But for aluminum end rings, you can find heavy wall tubing. I was able to get 3/8 wall tubing from Speedy Metals.

I bought the tubing as 1 inch cut-offs, with the idea that I could turn 3 or 4 rings from 1 piece, parting off between rings. The substantial length of tubing would provide the stiffness needed to avoid ring distortion from jaw clamping forces. This worked for the first reel, but I found parting off to be difficult with my Sherline lathe; it was very easy to stall the motor. So I decided to saw off short pieces in the future.

When sawing, the tubing must be firmly held. The 4 jaw chuck seem to be the best choice for this, so I made a fixture to hold the chuck under my power hacksaw. The brass part on this fixture has a 3/4-16 UNF thread that fits the back of the chuck.

In the future, I will buy tubing in longer lengths so it can be held in a cradle during sawing.

Here is a shot of the fixture in use

Turning the ring is straightforward. The ring does distort from jaw forces, but it helps to use a 4 jaw chuck instead of 3 jaw because the distortion is less. This distortion is not visible to the eye, but can be found with a dial caliper.

One of my rings was too narrow to clear the chuck jaws, so I made a sheet metal spacer to locate it farther out on the jaws.

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1 Response to End Rings

  1. richard westerfield says:

    i find your work most interesting its interresting that you do what you do with such a small lathe just goes to show you where there a will there a way keep up the good work and thank you
    richard westerfield

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